Climbing Red Cloud


Red Cloud
August 3, 2012
Chuck Wells

We arrived mid-afternoon in the aftermath of a gentle rain and rendezvoused with our companions at the Matterhorn Motel in Lake City, CO on Thursday.  Two new adventurers, John and Dave, joined our regular trio of geezers, lowering the group's average age.  Fred and Dave drove in from their homes in Steamboat Springs.  John and I arrived at altitude several days in advance, and Jim drove in from Kansas City the day before, making his subsequent achievements all the more remarkable.  Fred, Dave, and Jim made a test run to the trailhead before arriving in Lake City to minimize the potential for missteps the morning of the climb. The forecast for southwestern Colorado called for rain for the foreseeable future, a welcome relief from the drought conditions plaguing the region, but unwelcome to climbers fearful of lightning.

We journeyed to Bruno's, a French restaurant in Lake City, and enjoyed one of the finest dining experiences of my life.  As noted on the menu, "Reservations are a must."  Bruno is a bearded, gruff fellow, but a gracious host and remarkable chef.  During dinner John recounted the recent exploits of his 31-year old son-in-law who just completed a 100-mile foot race through the Sierra Nevada's, offering a humbling contrast to our more modest enterprise.  We retired early in anticipation of the climb.

The benefits of climbing a 14er are abundant but not easily discernible.  One enjoys a near euphoric feeling when attaining the summit, a combination of relief from the required exertions and satisfaction from the achievement of a difficult task.   The consistently striking views afforded along the journey reach a crescendo with the breathtaking panorama from the summit. One's preparations for the ordeal can't help but yield healthful benefits.  And sharing the experience with intrepid and likable comrades also provides an element of safety and succor.  

A climbing friend told us a story adding greater emphasis to this last item.  While climbing Mt. Whitney (elevation 14,501' in CA) with her brother, they encountered a Korean woman lying near the trail shivering.  They learned that her husband and another couple had abandoned her, as she couldn't keep up.  My friend gave her a warm coat, notified search and rescue of her plight, and they helped her down the mountain.  Many would find her comrades' behavior quite irksome.

The disadvantages of 14ering are more readily apparent.  Eight hours of strenuous hiking can be rather unpleasant, and potential exists for harm to one or more body parts.

Red Cloud, elevation 14,034', is one of fourteen 14ers in the San Juan mountain range in southwestern Colorado.  Lake City is the closest town to most of the trailheads leading to these treasures.  We left the motel at 5:00 am and drove 10 miles to the trailhead for Red Cloud.  Miraculously the skies were clear with bright stars and a nearly full moon. About one-half of the 45-minute drive was very rough requiring 4wd and heavy-duty tires.  Fortunately it was dark, sparing me the terror of viewing the potential for catastrophe should we bounce off the narrow shelf road into an abyss.

The website www.14ers.com offers the following information about Red Cloud:  difficulty - Class 2 (on a scale of 1-4, 4 being most difficult); trailhead elevation - 10,400'; trip length - 9 miles; elevation gain - 3,700'; trail to summit - sort of (sic); stability - unstable in some segments (no shit Sherlock), and exposure - 2 (on of a scale of 1-4, 4 being most dangerous).  We encountered a young man while atop Red Cloud who, in response to my query, explained the exposure ratings succinctly, "4 = you slip, you will die; 3 = you slip, you might die; 2 = you slip, you're going to get hurt; 1 = moderate danger."

Up to now my climbs had been confined to those rated 1 for difficulty and exposure.  Our trip captain Fred, two months shy of his 72nd birthday, chose Red Cloud as his 15th ascent as he had exhausted those classified as ones.  I hesitate to use the word "easiest."

We left the trailhead at 6:00 am, our path well lit by a full moon.  The sun wouldn't appear over the eastern ridge until after 8:00.  The route followed an unnamed creek emptying into the Lake Fork of the Gunnison River, up the aptly named Grizzly Gulch.

After the first couple of miles of hiking we mistakenly surmised that the rockiness of the trail accounted for Red Cloud's 2 rating.  Thus far the trail was formed by loose gravel, scree, and boulder fields, presumably the product of moraines from days long gone.  The inequality of the rocks made the footing consistently treacherous.

We ascended through a waverly of aspen into a thinly populated forest of pine following the modest gradient alongside the cascading stream.  Portions of the trail dropped close to water's edge and Fred observed, "In years with normal snowpack, we'd be waist deep in water at this spot." 

Three of our number possessed altimeters and mileage indicators, which kept us abreast of our progress.  Absent those devices one can pretty well determine the altitude in this region:  12,000' marks the tree line, 13,000' marks the end of meaningful vegetation, at 13,500' small critters disappear, and at 14,000' one looks down at the circling birds. 

We were becoming mildly concerned that we weren't gaining sufficient elevation as the miles passed.   Conversation was typically held to a minimum as we huffed and puffed up to the tree line, excepting Fred's frequent and appreciated words of encouragement.  My internal mantra was, "One step at a time."  I'd follow Fred, keep my eyes on the ankle bending trail, count each time my right foot set down, and upon reaching 100 I would reward myself with a glance upward."  We reached a small alpine pond populated by marmots and tiny rocky mountain voles at 12,000'. Our calibrating equipped comrades noted, "We've gone 2.5 miles but have only ascended 1,500'."  We all knew that we would soon pay a price for this agreeable rise.  After climbing through a bowl, lush with alpine grasses and wild flowers owing to the recent rains, we reached a ridgeline leading to our goal.  We had traveled 3.7 miles, but had only reached an elevation of 12,400'.  With a visual aid of the path ahead to the summit and simple arithmetic, we understood the reason for Red Cloud's 2 ranking:  a 1,650' ascent in the final .8 miles.

With five such climbs under my belt, I could now discern a mental health pattern.  Early morning excitement and energy aids reaching the tree line.  Mindless slogging gets me from 12,000' to 13,000'.  My low point is 13,000' - 13,500' with nagging doubts about my sanity and concern about the ignominy of potential failure.  Adrenaline, combined with the increasing prospect of success, kicks in from 13,500' to the top, oddly making it the easiest portion of the climb. 

My training left me better prepared than in years past. My legs, upper torso, and lungs were satisfactory for the task.  I also benefited greatly from Jim's tip to use my poles going uphill as well as downhill and to avoid supporting my pack with my arms behind me.  He advised, "You lose a lot of momentum when you don't allow your arms to swing forward." Unexpectedly though, I had other problems, notably tendonitis in my right hip.  I compensated with heavier reliance on my poles and exaggerated use of the left leg.

We reached the summit at 10:30 am, exhausted but exhilarated.  We encountered a young man, Travis, at the summit who had just climbed his 27th 14er and was resting before the descent.  He said he liked to spend as much time as possible at the high elevation to favorably impact his body chemistry.

He was a chatty fellow, and we listened attentively while taking in the stunning views, eating lunch, enjoying the flight of two white butterflies, and regaining some semblance of strength.  I mentioned reading about the adventures of Aron Ralston, the author of Between a Rock and a Hard Place, who ascended all fifty-four 14ers, solo, during the winters after he recovered from the self-amputation of his arm.  In response to this tidbit, Travis became highly agitated and denounced the recklessness and stupidity of such efforts saying, "Those stunts only endanger the search and rescue teams that have to clean up their messes."

Fred and Travis were comparing notes on the 14ers that require carrying gear sufficient for an overnight stay owing to the distance from/to the trailhead.  He was surprised to learn that a geezer like Fred had climbed Snowmass, until Fred clarified, "that was over 30 years ago." The young man was astonished at this news and queried,  "How did anyone even know about 14ers before the internet?  Surely they didn't have trails and roads back then?"  Fred gently reminded him of the existence of books, and that the trails were most likely a product of the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930's.

The severe drought besetting the region dominated the conversation of Coloradans during our stay.  Blue Mesa Lake, the largest body of water in Colorado, around which we drove en route to Lake City from Gunnison, was reportedly 85' below normal levels.  During the four acclimatizing / training days we spent in Crested Butte, I didn't see a single patch of snow.  Once atop Red Cloud we observed a few tiny pockets of snow, but Fred observed, "In all the years I've been doing this (30), I've never seen less snow pack."

Sunshine, elevation 14,001', is a neighboring peak and easily visible from the summit of Red Cloud.  Three miles of additional hiking accompanied by another 1,000' ascent and descent yields a two'fer for an energetic soul.  All of the younger climbers we encountered completed the Sunshine leg of the journey.  Jim, the manliest man in our group, joined them.  I was briefly tempted, as I wasn't feeling too bad after resting on the summit.  But after contemplating the difficulty of the impending descent I concluded it would be prudent to preserve my strength for that necessary task. 

Travis advised Jim, "The safest route back from Sunshine is to regain the summit of Red Cloud and return the way you came.  The alternate routes are extremely dangerous and require negotiating steep couloirs (a new word to me; a rocky gully descending from a mountain peak).  He shared a valuable tidbit to the rest of us, "Wear gloves on your descent.  There's a good chance you'll take an involuntary glissade and tear up your hands."  He then held up his injured palm to demonstrate his point.  We did as instructed and appreciated the valuable advice.

Two college-age young men, one tall one short, reached the summit just as we were preparing to descend.  They were wearing gym shorts and sleeveless tee shirts.  This contrasted to my outfit of a rain jacket (covering two layers of capilene), stocking cap, and gloves.  We chatted briefly and learned that earlier that morning the lads climbed nearby Handies Peak and then drove the 10 miles of bad roads to climb Red Cloud, which they ascended in two and a half hours.  After a brief rest they intended to make Sunshine their third 14er of the day.  We were mightily impressed.  We ran into them several hours later as they passed us on the way down.  They confessed to being tired, but they bounded down the mountain at a vigorous pace quickly disappearing in the distance.

At our dinner before the climb, I was asked what's hardest, going up or going down.  With a nanosecond's contemplation I exclaimed, "Way harder going up."  And that remains my view.  But the Red Cloud descent was truly awful. The steepness and unsure footing took their toll on my hips, knees, and feet. When we arrived back at the trailhead, I was out of gas.  I don't think I could have walked another 100'.  Had I attempted Sunshine, my carcass would now be serving as carrion somewhere along the trail.

Jim returned from his two'fer about 30 minutes after we reached the trailhead.  We celebrated with a couple of cold beers and drove down the treacherous mountain road.  I was too tired to be terrified.  We returned to the Matterhorn for farewells as everyone was heading in different directions.  New guy John, who was a great addition to the group, said, "Count me in for next year."  Jim and I were more circumspect.  It's going to take a lot of forgetfulness before I do this again.  It may remain 6 down and 48 to go for a very long time, absent the intervention of reincarnation.

p.s.  Jim sent an email the day after the climb with interesting comparative data about his eleven 14ers.  More importantly he bestowed upon Fred the coveted "Oldest-Thing-On-The-Mountain-Other-Than-The-Rocks" award. 

p.p.s. He proclaimed me the, "Most-Improved-Hiker/Climber," a sobriquet I shall carry with pride.  This is a marked improvement over last year's, "Comeback-Climber-of-the-Day," award referring to my recovery after a near total collapse whilst climbing Mt. Elbert


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